Singapore Biennale - Adventure Year Week 30

posted on: January 10, 2020

Our second visit to Singapore landed us right in the middle of the Singapore Biennale 2019-2020.  This was not the purpose of our visit, but upon discovering it happening after our arrival, it became my daily refuge and indulgence when the jet lag wasn't working against me.  I enjoyed seeking out the spaces and exhibitions where many Southeast Asian artists were expressing their creative thoughts on the theme "Every Step in the Right Direction" while Alex worked with Singapore Teachers Academy for the Arts.




Many of the works were pointing to issues of social justice, migrating populations, changing landscapes, lost traditions, colonization, interconnectedness, and development of identity.  I was struck by how different the dialogue and feelings of colonization are in Southeast Asian contexts versus North American contexts.  In North America, we generally see colonization as something that robbed Africans and Native Americans of their land and culture.  In Southeast Asia, there's a lot of dialogue around colonization being a force of modernization and empowerment out of communist and dictatorial rule rather than a forced loss of culture, so the dialogue around this issue becomes very different in this light.  It certainly gives me something to think about with regard to the multiple perspectives that can be offered around the same topic, and the fact that Singapore can bring these perspectives to an English speaking audience is also a unique benefit of seeing art in Singapore.




Our local friends practically scolded me for once again not making it to Singapore's most famous garden sights, but I think of it as a reason to keep coming back and finding something spectacular to explore about Singapore.  It's such a small and dense place that it would be a shame if I felt like I'd seen it all and done it all on my first couple visits!  Instead, I indulged in the most ephemeral garden created by artists that may only be featured here for this brief period of time.



Another ephemeral thing that happened while in Singapore was being able to meet up with other friends and colleagues from other countries around the world.  In this case, finding out that Australian friends were in town at the same time, and had not yet been to the fabulous ATLAS bar.



This time, I also discovered a new dining experience at NOX- Dine in the Dark, where the 12 dish prix fixe menu is a mystery to be discovered without the sense of sight and where visually impaired hosts teach guests how to eat in the dark.  A truly memorable dining experience that also raised my awareness of the needs and accommodations for visual impairment.




We discovered that there is more than one rooftop infinity pool in Singapore, and the one at the Park Hotel Alexandra also happens to look out at the famous Interlace Residential development in Singapore, which apparently still has some 99 year lease apartments available if you're in the market! This location also made it convenient to get to the Gillman Barracks- one of the largest sites for the Singapore Biennale.




A short scroll through the images above will also show you one of the fantastic traditional Singaporean meals we had at Peramakan inside the historic Keppel Golf Club, which may be closing at the end of this year in order to make way for more new developments.

More than anything, Singapore continues to make it easy for visitors to relax in some warm winter temperatures and poolside scenery, even if all we have are a few hours of alertness between adventuring, working, and sleeping off some jet lag.





Learning Local Unmentionables While Traveling - Adventure Year Week 20

posted on: October 29, 2019

Traveling with local guidance versus foreign guidance results in different experiences of culture.  I'm grateful that I've had a chance to travel with local guidance in various places around the world because it provides a deeper sense of cultural norms and expectations than traveling with foreign guidance.  When I say local guidance, I usually mean someone who was born and raised in a place, versus someone who gives local tours but did not grow up in the culture.

Sometimes this local guidance comes in the form of a hired tour guide, and sometimes it comes in the form of a local friend or colleague that is patient and understanding when asking questions about local differences.  Some people may assume they'll encounter differences and be surprised by how much is the same, while other people may expect things to be the same and end up confronted with how much they are different.  I do my best to enter each new city with as few expectations as possible, but inevitably, because I ask a lot of questions when I can, I will often learn what hidden assumptions I may have once I begin to encounter the local unmentionables.





In Bali, through discussions with local guides, I learned that people will not speak of corrupt actions they see happening or confront someone directly in the face of corrupt actions, even though they may experience the issues that come with these actions daily.  There is some need to save face, even in the midst of doing something wrong.  They may also dismiss discussions of inequity, as many people still consider the caste system a fact of daily life and organization for society.

In Grenada, the local guide helped me understand what topics and outsider perspectives were off limits with regard to certain time periods of history, outside perspectives on conflicts, or political decisions and negotiations that were made historically.




In Russia, the local guide mentioned nicknames for all the famous rulers of the past, but when I asked whether the current political leader had a nickname, the guide's humorous tone turned very serious when he said "there used to be a nickname used by a comedian, but no one uses that nickname anymore," eluding to a possible unsavory outcome.  I could tell this wasn't a topic to discuss further.

China lets you know what the unmentionables are by actively shutting down apps, online services, and websites that convey negative comments about politics or leadership.  Saving face and being respectful no matter what is happening is a very important cultural ideology and means of maintaining peace and social grace.  To a free-speech country, this may appear controlling, but locally, this is considered more a form of proper etiquette.  Part of understating the culture is learning when and how to convey disagreement indirectly.

In Singapore, you do not talk about race or religion in any way other than to celebrate or inspire.  Any form of divisive commentary regarding race or religion are against the entire peacekeeping culture of Singapore that does its best to accept all people as inclusively and welcoming as possible.

The French do not want to hear about your career, fancy purchases, or politics, which are often topics that Americans tend to talk about.  They will tune you out and dismiss you as a boring or bragging person who cannot relate.  Food, art, music, and travel are much more desirable conversations.

In England, you never disparage the Queen and you don't complain about anything personal other than the weather.  You are to "keep calm, carry on" no matter the disasters befalling your situation.

Despite how often racial issues are featured in United States news, we don't considered OK to talk about race in daily conversation.  People can be described by their clothing, their hair type, and shade of skin as being lighter or darker- but it's best not to assume their place of origin, religion (unless their clothing is of religious-designation), sexual orientation, or their personal heritage if you don't actually know.

As a traveler, I sincerely appreciate getting an introduction to local culture and unmentionable topics through a local guide.  Local guides are the most forgiving and tolerant when people do not understand what is off-limits as a visitor, and guides have the most patience for helping tourists understand local etiquette in a short time frame.

Even if you cannot get a local guide, YouTube and Blogs also have plenty of travel etiquette advice to offer that is specific to whatever country or city you may plan to visit in your travels.  It's never been easier to educate yourself before venturing out into other areas of the world, so that you can be welcomed as a respectful traveler who engages consciously with respectful consideration of local etiquette that is different in each city and culture.  To get you started on your search, pick a country you'd love to visit and search YouTube for "What Not To Do in (Country)" and watch a few different perspectives to see variations and differences between opinions.

Singapore's Iconic Sights - Adventure Year Week 19

posted on: October 22, 2019

This week in Singapore was about a few different things, but for Alex and I together, it was about celebrating our 16th Wedding Anniversary.  Instead of choosing just one hotel, we decided to hotel-hop around the city to stay in different areas and see different things within walking distance of each hotel.


Our first couple days were spent near Bugis Junction.  I'd read about the Raffles Hotel being the originator of the Singapore Sling, so we went to check it out.  That was our first introduction to how expensive things can be in Singapore.  Let's just say it was a very splurgy week, and we justified it heavily as celebrating our anniversary.


While at the Raffles Hotel, we noticed they were having an upcoming promotional event for their Grand Reopening Celebration after 2 years of extended renovations.  I've often looked at Historic Hotel Menus and Celebrations of the past featured in the display cabinets of hotels and wondered what it would be like to attend one, and here was a chance to experience that fabulous night when the cocktails, food, and entertainment are unlike any other.  The event was also happening on our wedding anniversary so it seemed like a perfect way to celebrate!  The Grand Reopening festivities did not disappoint, and we enjoyed every minute of it, including a special intimate performance by the Singapore National theme song icon, Kit Chan.  There was magic in the air, and I hope that magic continues to foster even more special celebrations at the historic Raffles Hotel.



By complete chance, we also ended up wandering into an escalator that led into the Parkview Square building, and led us into one of the most amazing Art Deco grand lobbies I think I've ever seen.  Wow, just, wow.  (Also pricey cocktails - but the bartender let us sample a few unique gins!)


After that kind of over-the-top introduction to Singapore, we needed to ground ourselves a bit, so we made sure to take time to wander through the cultural streets and hawker centers.  We ended up in Kampong Glam during the call to prayer, in Chinatown during the opening festivities of Deepavali (Diwali), and along the Esplanade and Merlion fountain during the Cultural Dance festival- all by chance.  We tried so many delicious foods from all over South East Asia, and were led by fantastic Singapore hosts who made sure we got to try things we might not otherwise go out of our way to try.  We are both so grateful for the local guidance and generosity.



We also got to wander through the National Botanical Garden and National Orchid Gardens.  Even though every day we spent outside left us both covered in sweat from the warm humid air, we eventually just got used to this just being the new normal and just pressed on with being half drenched most of the time.



The best way to stay cool during the day was either to stay in the air conditioning, or to hit the pool, and there is probably no more famous pool in Singapore than the infinity pool on the top of the Marina Bay Sands.  It overlooks the city and feels surreal to be floating in a pool above everything else.  Of course I took excessive pool selfies, as was everyone else!



Singapore was very good to us for our 16th Wedding Anniversary and is now my favorite city in Asia.  Everyone speaks English to help negotiate common ground between all of the different heritage languages, which makes it easier to navigate for English speakers, even while there are actually 4 official languages of Singapore, not just one, which is very inclusive and embracing of diversity.  It's a melting pot of Asian trade between India, Malaysia, Indonesia, and China, and the population is reflective of this.  There is room for all religions to practice, with peaceful recognition of all celebrations - much like New York City handles multiple religious celebrations happening at once.  The internet is fast and mostly unfiltered and unrestricted, which makes it easier to do business internationally.  Most places take nearly all forms of payment, so we really didn't even need to take out cash anywhere.  The city is full of plant life and hasn't been completely drown out by excessively tall buildings.  I do sense a lot of economic concern in Singapore with regard to the future, but because the city is so diverse, inclusive, and adaptive to change, I think that it will bounce back from anything the world might throw its way, much like New York does.

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