October 29, 2019

Learning Local Unmentionables While Traveling - Adventure Year Week 20

Traveling with local guidance versus foreign guidance results in different experiences of culture.  I'm grateful that I've had a chance to travel with local guidance in various places around the world because it provides a deeper sense of cultural norms and expectations than traveling with foreign guidance.  When I say local guidance, I usually mean someone who was born and raised in a place, versus someone who gives local tours but did not grow up in the culture.

Sometimes this local guidance comes in the form of a hired tour guide, and sometimes it comes in the form of a local friend or colleague that is patient and understanding when asking questions about local differences.  Some people may assume they'll encounter differences and be surprised by how much is the same, while other people may expect things to be the same and end up confronted with how much they are different.  I do my best to enter each new city with as few expectations as possible, but inevitably, because I ask a lot of questions when I can, I will often learn what hidden assumptions I may have once I begin to encounter the local unmentionables.





In Bali, through discussions with local guides, I learned that people will not speak of corrupt actions they see happening or confront someone directly in the face of corrupt actions, even though they may experience the issues that come with these actions daily.  There is some need to save face, even in the midst of doing something wrong.  They may also dismiss discussions of inequity, as many people still consider the caste system a fact of daily life and organization for society.

In Grenada, the local guide helped me understand what topics and outsider perspectives were off limits with regard to certain time periods of history, outside perspectives on conflicts, or political decisions and negotiations that were made historically.




In Russia, the local guide mentioned nicknames for all the famous rulers of the past, but when I asked whether the current political leader had a nickname, the guide's humorous tone turned very serious when he said "there used to be a nickname used by a comedian, but no one uses that nickname anymore," eluding to a possible unsavory outcome.  I could tell this wasn't a topic to discuss further.

China lets you know what the unmentionables are by actively shutting down apps, online services, and websites that convey negative comments about politics or leadership.  Saving face and being respectful no matter what is happening is a very important cultural ideology and means of maintaining peace and social grace.  To a free-speech country, this may appear controlling, but locally, this is considered more a form of proper etiquette.  Part of understating the culture is learning when and how to convey disagreement indirectly.

In Singapore, you do not talk about race or religion in any way other than to celebrate or inspire.  Any form of divisive commentary regarding race or religion are against the entire peacekeeping culture of Singapore that does its best to accept all people as inclusively and welcoming as possible.

The French do not want to hear about your career, fancy purchases, or politics, which are often topics that Americans tend to talk about.  They will tune you out and dismiss you as a boring or bragging person who cannot relate.  Food, art, music, and travel are much more desirable conversations.

In England, you never disparage the Queen and you don't complain about anything personal other than the weather.  You are to "keep calm, carry on" no matter the disasters befalling your situation.

Despite how often racial issues are featured in United States news, we don't considered OK to talk about race in daily conversation.  People can be described by their clothing, their hair type, and shade of skin as being lighter or darker- but it's best not to assume their place of origin, religion (unless their clothing is of religious-designation), sexual orientation, or their personal heritage if you don't actually know.

As a traveler, I sincerely appreciate getting an introduction to local culture and unmentionable topics through a local guide.  Local guides are the most forgiving and tolerant when people do not understand what is off-limits as a visitor, and guides have the most patience for helping tourists understand local etiquette in a short time frame.

Even if you cannot get a local guide, YouTube and Blogs also have plenty of travel etiquette advice to offer that is specific to whatever country or city you may plan to visit in your travels.  It's never been easier to educate yourself before venturing out into other areas of the world, so that you can be welcomed as a respectful traveler who engages consciously with respectful consideration of local etiquette that is different in each city and culture.  To get you started on your search, pick a country you'd love to visit and search YouTube for "What Not To Do in (Country)" and watch a few different perspectives to see variations and differences between opinions.

October 22, 2019

Singapore's Iconic Sights - Adventure Year Week 19

This week in Singapore was about a few different things, but for Alex and I together, it was about celebrating our 16th Wedding Anniversary.  Instead of choosing just one hotel, we decided to hotel-hop around the city to stay in different areas and see different things within walking distance of each hotel.


Our first couple days were spent near Bugis Junction.  I'd read about the Raffles Hotel being the originator of the Singapore Sling, so we went to check it out.  That was our first introduction to how expensive things can be in Singapore.  Let's just say it was a very splurgy week, and we justified it heavily as celebrating our anniversary.


While at the Raffles Hotel, we noticed they were having an upcoming promotional event for their Grand Reopening Celebration after 2 years of extended renovations.  I've often looked at Historic Hotel Menus and Celebrations of the past featured in the display cabinets of hotels and wondered what it would be like to attend one, and here was a chance to experience that fabulous night when the cocktails, food, and entertainment are unlike any other.  The event was also happening on our wedding anniversary so it seemed like a perfect way to celebrate!  The Grand Reopening festivities did not disappoint, and we enjoyed every minute of it, including a special intimate performance by the Singapore National theme song icon, Kit Chan.  There was magic in the air, and I hope that magic continues to foster even more special celebrations at the historic Raffles Hotel.



By complete chance, we also ended up wandering into an escalator that led into the Parkview Square building, and led us into one of the most amazing Art Deco grand lobbies I think I've ever seen.  Wow, just, wow.  (Also pricey cocktails - but the bartender let us sample a few unique gins!)


After that kind of over-the-top introduction to Singapore, we needed to ground ourselves a bit, so we made sure to take time to wander through the cultural streets and hawker centers.  We ended up in Kampong Glam during the call to prayer, in Chinatown during the opening festivities of Deepavali (Diwali), and along the Esplanade and Merlion fountain during the Cultural Dance festival- all by chance.  We tried so many delicious foods from all over South East Asia, and were led by fantastic Singapore hosts who made sure we got to try things we might not otherwise go out of our way to try.  We are both so grateful for the local guidance and generosity.



We also got to wander through the National Botanical Garden and National Orchid Gardens.  Even though every day we spent outside left us both covered in sweat from the warm humid air, we eventually just got used to this just being the new normal and just pressed on with being half drenched most of the time.



The best way to stay cool during the day was either to stay in the air conditioning, or to hit the pool, and there is probably no more famous pool in Singapore than the infinity pool on the top of the Marina Bay Sands.  It overlooks the city and feels surreal to be floating in a pool above everything else.  Of course I took excessive pool selfies, as was everyone else!



Singapore was very good to us for our 16th Wedding Anniversary and is now my favorite city in Asia.  Everyone speaks English to help negotiate common ground between all of the different heritage languages, which makes it easier to navigate for English speakers, even while there are actually 4 official languages of Singapore, not just one, which is very inclusive and embracing of diversity.  It's a melting pot of Asian trade between India, Malaysia, Indonesia, and China, and the population is reflective of this.  There is room for all religions to practice, with peaceful recognition of all celebrations - much like New York City handles multiple religious celebrations happening at once.  The internet is fast and mostly unfiltered and unrestricted, which makes it easier to do business internationally.  Most places take nearly all forms of payment, so we really didn't even need to take out cash anywhere.  The city is full of plant life and hasn't been completely drown out by excessively tall buildings.  I do sense a lot of economic concern in Singapore with regard to the future, but because the city is so diverse, inclusive, and adaptive to change, I think that it will bounce back from anything the world might throw its way, much like New York does.

October 15, 2019

Shanghai's Iconic Sights DIY Walking Tour - Adventure Year Week 18

On the surface, Shanghai is a massive and overwhelming city, but it's also very tourist friendly due to the great public transportation and walking paths.  I personally love tours that make it possible to get a lot of great places on foot, because that also makes it possible to encounter so many more local and cultural surprises than if you're rolling by in a big tour bus or taxi.  Now that I've been living in Shanghai long enough to have a few visitors to take around the city, I've developed a walking route that allows me to show visitors the best of the city all in one day.  So, if you're only going to have one day to explore the top sights of Shanghai, read on for a full DIY itinerary that will help you reach all of the major highlights and icons of the city.



MAP USE NOTES:
Android Users: If you're going to do this tour with Google Maps, you need to load Shanghai as an offline map BEFORE arriving to China, since Google Map use in China is limited on VPN or simply unavailable.  I recommend marking each stop as a favorite.
Apple Users: You're in luck. Apple Maps offers accuracy and connectivity without VPN access while you're in China, but since Google Maps is what I can easily embed here, and allows you to dive into Street Views of each area online, that's what I'm going to include in this post.  Mark the locations based on name and address while in China.

Here's the Overview of This Day Trip:
  1. Yu Garden
  2. City of God
  3. Shanghai Old Street
  4. Char Bar Views 
  5. Public Ferry to Pudong
  6. Skyscraper Tour
  7. Skywalk to Pearl Tower
  8. Bund Sightseeing Tunnel
  9. City Lights on Bund
  10. Dinner & Drinks on Bund

9am Yu Garden
(40rmb for adults)
The most detailed historic architecture in Shanghai is hidden a beautiful garden setting.  The garden environment is serene with the movement of water, stillness of the ancient rocks, and wind moving between the leaves of the trees.  Each pavilion in the garden represents a different purpose and use, and the signs are conveniently bi-lingual for English readers.  In some ways, it's like stepping back in time to when dynasties ran entire compounds for enjoyment, entertainment, and contemplating larger issues of life.  What I especially love looking for here are the unique details carved into to every doorway, every window, and every rooftop.  Keep your eye out for the large dragon that stretches along the top of the garden wall.



10:30am City of God 
(free to wander, snacks and gifts available with cash)
In order to get to Yu Garden, you already walked through a good part of the City of God, which surrounds Yu Garden but at an early hour the shops may not have fully opened yet.  City of God is a good place to get lost in the shops and try iconic Shanghai street foods like moon cakes, massive soup dumplings, candied strawberries on sticks, and tea blends.  You can find all of the iconic gifts and souvenirs of Shanghai here, as well as many of the favorite street snacks, teas, foods, and even some modern convenience brands like Starbucks.  For a real taste of Chinese food offerings, step into the large buffet food hall and wander through the line to pick up a few things to try at tables in the cafeteria.



12:00pm Shanghai Old Street
(free to walk around)
One of the few remaining districts with low rise housing and retail built in early 1900s style.  You'll find lots of cheaply made trinkets and items similar to what you found inside the City of God, but the architecture here is more like what the city used to look like before skyscrapers moved in.



12:30pm Char Bar Outdoor Views at Hotel Indigo
(a bottle of sparking water starts at 70rmb, but the views and a chance to rest are worth it)
As you walk toward the river, keep your eye out for Hotel Indigo and/or Char Bar.  If you search for the name of the hotel on Google Maps, you may end up in the wrong place.  The address and map posted above is the correct location.  Take the interior elevator up to the Char Bar level of Hotel Indigo.  There are indoor seats that overlook the river views, as well as two outdoor rooftop views that provide one of the best views of both sides of the river.  In the river, you'll see the various ferries that go back and forth across the river, the freight boats, and the tour boats.  This is a good spot to make sure the ferries are running, otherwise you'll need to ask the hotel concierge for a taxi to get across the river from here.  This is also a great place to look at the skyscrapers across the river and see where the clouds are.  If the clouds are too low and you can't see the top of the skyscrapers, then you'll know it won't be worth getting tickets into the observatories for the tallest skyscrapers, but there are still other options available that I'll share later.  Char Bar is also a good place to recharge your phone batteries if needed, since there are outlets along a few of the seating areas.



1:30pm Ferry or Taxi to Pudong Side
(ferry is about 3rmb, taxi is about 30rmb)
If you're ready for more walking, head to the public ferry dock to grab a ferry across the river (there are many tourist river cruises that dock here, but keep walking until you find the public ferry dock which has its own ferry icon).
If your feet need a rest, ask the hotel concierge for a taxi to the Jin Mao Tower in Pudong.  The driveway of the Jin Mao Tower is where you can look up at the three giant skyscrapers of Shanghai all in one city block, check out the wait times for each observatory, and decide if you'd like to go up into one of them if the weather is clear enough.



2:00pm Skyscraper Square
The goal here is to pick just one Skyscraper based on the weather and your preferences, since the views can be similar from all of them.  Here are the questions worth asking yourself at this point:
  1. Is the cloud layer high enough, and the air clear enough, that it will be worth going to one of the top observatory decks?  If the answer is yes, go to question number 2.  If the answer is no, skip the other questions and check out the Jin Mao Tower.
  2. Are you willing to spend the next 1-2 hours waiting in lines and crowds for the views?  If yes, go to question number 3.  If no, skip the last question and check out the Jin Mao Tower.
  3. Would you be disappointed if you didn't go in the tallest tower in Shanghai?  If yes, head to the Shanghai Tower to begin your wait for the Observatory level.  If no, check out the other options.
Shanghai Tower - Tallest Building in China
(bookstore level available without admission ticket, admission fee for observatory levels)
If the clouds are high enough and the sky isn't too hazy, this is a bucket list item for many people.  The views are unobstructed on all sides and offer plenty of time to take it all in.
52nd Floor Bookstore
100th Floor Observatory

World Financial Center - Second Tallest Building in China
(mall floors are accessible without observatory ticket, admission fee for observatory levels)
If the sky is clear, but the wait time for the Shanghai Tower is too long due to large tour groups, you may also consider checking out the availability at this tower, which also offers a shopping mall and glass sky walk.

Jin Mao Tower - A Fast Alternative on Cloudy/Hazy Days
(free visit to the hotel lobby, restaurant prices posted inside)
When the clouds obstruct the tallest towers, this tower provides an option for mid-height views of the city and the surrounding towers.  Find the entrance labeled Grand Hyatt, which is different than the observatory entrance.  Take the elevator to various levels of the hotel and wander around to check out the views.
53rd Floor Grand Hyatt Lobby
54th Floor Restaurants





4:00pm Skywalk to Pearl Tower
(free to walk on, cafes are available if you need refreshment)
This Skywalk shortens the time it takes to get to the Pearl Tower by providing a pedestrian passage free from intersection traffic and traffic lights.  From the Skyscrapers, you'll head up to the walk on the way to the IFC Mall.  If you miss the walk before the IFC Mall, you can access the Skywalk from inside the mall as well, since the Skywalk enters and leaves the mall as it takes a turn toward the Pearl Tower.  The views along the Skywalk provide a great look at the inside of the city and great selfie opportunities with the major buildings of Pudong.




4:30pm Oriental Pearl Tower
(admission fee, restaurants, cafes, and shops available)
This is Shanghai's most distinctive building, even if it isn't the tallest.  Whether or not you got a good weather day with the largest skyscrapers, the Pearl Tower is another great chance to get a closer view of the city highlights along the Bund at a lower elevations that makes it easier to see everything in closer view.  The wait times to get up to the main observatory are posted at the ticket office.  Double that amount of time if you'd like to also visit the Space Capsule, since the elevator is smaller and allows fewer people to go up to the top.  This is actually an ideal tower to go up in before sunset because you get a 360ยบ view of the city and the night lights that light up along the Bund and on the skyscrapers behind.  There's a large plaza outside the building, a restaurant and shops inside the building, two main observation decks, the space capsule deck, and a couple more entertainment options inside the tower.  If you're short on time, just visit the two main observation decks.



7:00pm Bund Sightseeing Tunnel
People consider this to be either the coolest passenger tunnel from one side of the river to the other, or a really cheesy amusement ride.  Either way, it's definitely a unique Shanghai experience, and the most convenient way to get from one side of the river to the other without getting back into a taxi and dealing with evening traffic.  You may see brown signs for the Sightseeing Tunnel to help you navigate to the entrance.  The ticket booth is underground with escalators for access, and while it may seem enticing to buy a ticket for all of the amusements, it's a bit late in the day for anything more than the tunnel ride.



7:30pm Shanghai People's Heros Monument Park
(free public access)
Once the city is lit up at night, this is the perfect place along the river to take it all in and look back at the light shows on and around the skyscraper buildings that aren't possible to see when you're inside the skyscrapers.  You get a great view along all sides of the river and you get to see all the river cruise boats lit up as they float up and down the river.  This is a lovely place for night photography of the city and to decide where you'd like to go next from here.



8:00pm Best Hotel Restaurants and Bars Nearby
(click the links to explore reviews and contact info)
After a very full day of walking, you could just call it a night and head back to your place to crash.  You could find some street foods and cafes around the Bund and neighborhood.  Or you could find yourself in a nice hotel restaurant or terrace bar with views overlooking the area you spent your day discovering on foot.  I'm a fan of the latter, so here are some of the best places nearby with restaurants and bars to help you unwind.  Click on the links to explore reviews.  Advance reservations are highly recommended.

VUE Restaurant - Hyatt on the Bund

Sir Elly's Restaurant & Terrace - The Peninsula Hotel

The Cathay Room & Terrace - Fairmont Peace Hotel